Pilgrimage Road, El Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Castile, Spain
Pilgrimage Road, El Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Castile, Spain Photographic Print
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Books & Sounds

The Way of St James - Le Puy to Santiago / A Walker's Guide by Allison Raju (have read - excellent)
The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago : The Complete Cultural Handbook by Gitlitz & Davidson (have read - excellent)
Following the Milky Way: A Pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago
The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago De Compostela
El Camino : Walking to Santiago De Compostela
The Pilgrimage to Santiago

 

 


 

Proposed Walk

  1. El Cebrero (O Cebreiro) @Km. 152 (from Santiago) to
  2. Triacastela @Km. 132 to
  3. Samos (detour to see Monestary) @Km. 119 to
  4. Sarria @Km. 113 to
  5. Portomarín @Km. 90 to
  6. Palas de Rei @Km. 67 to
  7. Arzúa @Km. 39 to
  8. Santiago de Compostela @Km. 0

 

 

 

 

 

Camino Links

Confraternity of St James
 Galicia Tourism
 weather in Leon and Santiago

  Pilgrim Notes 

Day 29 O Cebreiro to Triacastela 25 KM

Another beautiful walk especially the second part. Once I was in Triacastela on a Sunday and went with some other pilgrims to mass, the priest sat us all down and said he wasn’t going to bother with mass but gave us a lecture on the camino instead.

Day 30 Triacastela to Sarria 17 KM

Two choices today you can go to Sarria via Samos or via San Xil, either way today is short enough to have time to see Samos. If you go via San Xil (this route closed at the moment after the bad storms but hopefully open again soon) then when you get to Samos, when you have settled in to the Refugio take a taxi and go and visit Samos, it costs less than 1000 Ptas for the taxi ride and they will wait or call back to bring to you back.

Day 31 Sarria to Portomarin 22 KM

Lots of Galician green lanes, listen to the frogs, they will even hop across your feet in some places. You are now in Galicia so most of the Refugios don’t open until around 4, nice park near the one in Portomarin for a siesta.

Day 32 Portomarin to Casanova (Mato) 28KM

You could stop in Palas de Rei but I think it is worth walking the extra 5 Km to Casanova where there is a lovely Refugio run by Carmen, which is usually not crowded. You can either buy some provisions in Palas de Rei and cook your own supper in Casanova or Carmen cooks meals. Casanova which I think is also called Mato is lovely and quiet in the middle of green fields.

Day 33 Casanova to Arzua 24 KM

Today you pass through Melide, nice little town, just before it you pass through Furelos (lovely little bridge) also has a lovely little church. After Melide you meet the Eucliptus woods, they will be with you on and off until Santiago. There is a nice Refugio before Arzua in Ribadiso, it has a river, possibilities for swimming and cooling the tired feet, but you need provisions as there is no where to eat.

Day 34 Arzua to Arca 23 KM

Again choices you could walk 39 KM and reach Santiago but I think it is nice not to do the final bit exhausted, also nice not to stay too close to Santiago on the last night so that you a decent walk in on the last day and arrive in time for Pilgrim Mass at 12.00. There is a large Refugio in Arca.

Day 35 Arca to Santiago 16 KM

Just a nice walk distance and easy to arrive in time for Pilgrim Mass, you will even have time to go to the office and collect your Compostela before mass, also remember at Pilgrim mass they get some Pilgrims to read prayers so you may find yourself doing this and most certainly will recognise other pilgrims who are reading prayers. I suggest not staying in the Refugio in Santiago (anyway it is closed for repairs for most of 2001) so you would have to stay in the one at Monte de Gozo on the outskirts, I suggest stay in a Hostal in the old quarter, they are not expensive and lovely to soak up the atmosphere of the old city, the Suso in Rue Vilar is lovely and old Mr Suso a character, his sons run the place but he helps out.

 

Experiences and observations from pilgrims

Hi all,

I just finished my Camino experience - Leon to Santiago. I had a wonderful time and am already thinking about doing the St. Jean to Leon section. Although I'm certainly not an expert, I do have a few comments in regards to questions I've seen asked and my experience. (I'm 62 years old)

FEET - I'd say this is the primary concern, unless you want your pilgrimage to be about blisters. I wore boots which I broke in for two months prior to going. I saw all sorts of other footwear that seemed to be working for people as well. I had no blisters. Many of the problems I saw were related to poor preparation, both of body and boots. Old, worn out footwear falling apart, new footwear not broken in, etc. Whatever you choose, make sure it's broken in and works for you. I had Compeed patches I bought in the US -only one size was available. I ended up giving them away and saw that they were really too big. I'd recommend buying them in a Farmacia in Spain. I had a pair of Teva sandals I used in the shower and for walking in town. They were great!

GEAR - I had a backpack weighing 20 lb without water. I realized that I could (and should) have taken less. I could have saved a couple of shirts by having colored undershirts double as T shirts, etc. What I really missed, however, was a pair of binoculars.

MILES - I averaged 15 per day which was OK for me. While I'm sure some people are capable of more, I saw some macho types who were humbled, and blubbering in the night by trying 30 to 40 kM per day. Shin splints, terrible blisters, infections, exhaustion. Unless you're into self flagellation, be realistic about your capabilities and what you can do with joy.

MONEY - ATM's are ubiquitous. I was charged $1 per transaction. Occasionally my card was refused and I used another machine. I had a VISA card I could draw on as a backup and I needed this in the Netherlands, but not in Spain.

REFUGE COST - I found that many of them were "free". I made it a practice to donate 300 pts, and was disappointed that many of the pilgrims I saw weren't willing to make a donation.

THEFT - I always dropped my backpack in the refuge prior to going sightseeing. I never had anything stolen or heard of anyone losing anything.

REFUGE IN SANTIAGO - I personally wouldn't and didn't use it, especially after I looked at it as I walked by. Barracks equipped to handle 2000 people?? If you want to recreate your military experience go for it. And, it's 5 kM away from the city center as well. Accommodations right in the heart of Santiago are available for 2500 pts for a single ($15 per night). It's a wonderful city to be downtown in and worth the expense.

REFUGES VS HOTELS - Although I was prepared to stay in the occasional hotel, except for Santiago, I didn't. As a solo hiker, I really enjoyed the interaction with other pilgrims at the end of the day, although I hiked alone most days (my preference). The refuge is where dinner arrangements are made, experiences and feelings discussed, medical problems worked on, etc. If you stay in hotels you'll miss the socialization part of the Camino.

GUIDEBOOKS - I got a copy of Milan Bravo Lozano's book from the Spanish Tourist Bureau. I did have to beg, but I did get it. It didn't come with the plastic neck carrying pouch you get if you buy it in Spain. I tore out the maps and used them with the Confraternity of Saint James Guide.

This is a wonderful trip. You'll be supported by the Spanish people and other pilgrims. Enjoy the experience. Hi all, Jack again. I'm glad that some of you found my comments on my recent completion of the Camino between Leon and Santiago useful, and you're welcome to share them with anyone. Since there were several requests for additional information, I'll just respond to the list.

SUPPLIES - Believe it or not, Spain is a modern country! As you pass through a medium or large city I think you'll find everything you need that is critical for your walk. I found replacement socks to replace ones I lost, and they were identical to the ones I bought in the US. Others I met bought clothing and even boots. Walking sticks, scallop shells, guide books. They are all available at reasonable prices. Scallop shells were $1.50 complete with neck strap. Many cities have tourist info offices which can direct you not only to rooms, but also stores providing items you need. Fellow pilgrims and hospitaleros are also good sources for this type of information.

WALKING STICKS - I had never used a stick before and I've done lots of mountain hiking. I thought I'd try it. Although I took a collapsible Austrian walking stick from the US, I saw wooden ones in shops and at some refuges, some complete with gourds and scallop shells. I recall they were around $3. I'm sold on using one for my future walks. Some pilgrims used two sticks and many used none.

FEET AGAIN - I carried moleskin and have used it frequently in the past, although I didn't need it on this trip. If you feel a spot rubbing and get to it immediately, moleskin works prior to blisters forming. According to the instructions, Compeed can be used like moleskin and can also be used after blisters form, which I wouldn't recommend with moleskin. I used Vaseline on my feet each day, more liberally where I've had problems in the past, and lightly over other areas. I squeezed about an inch out of the tube for each foot. I think it helped, but how can I be sure?? It certainly kept my skin supple and prevented its drying out, which is a problem for us older folks.

BINOCULARS AND WEIGHT - My vision isn't great and I really missed studying birds I saw and trying to identify them. I regret not taking my relatively lightweight binoculars (12 oz). I can think of 12 oz worth of clothes and other stuff I could have left behind.

COST - Frankly, I didn't bother keeping track as it's so inexpensive. When I was on the road I imagine it cost me maybe $15 per day with donations. With the exception of lunches, I always ate out. Hotels will, of course, raise the price. A fellow pilgrim taught me a valuable lesson. Occasionally he'd take his lunch off the trail to a nice spot, take a nap or relax, write in his diary, enjoy the view, listen to sounds around him, etc. You're allowed to enjoy yourself!

WOMEN ALONE - I recall two young women walking alone that I got to know. Neither mentioned a concern about walking alone. One of them wanted to walk alone during the day and I recall walking a short time with the other one (who was overweight and ended up using the bus to complete her trip because of knee problems). I met two Dutch retired women (65) who had walked alone, but together, from Le Puy in France, a goodly distance. There was also an older Spanish woman having terrible foot problems who walked alone most of the time and as long as she could each day, and then took a taxi or bus the rest of the way to the next refuge.

AGE - I thought I'd be the oldest geezer on the Camino at 62. I met a number of people older than I. Since retirees have more schedule flexibility, they probably make up a larger percentage of the people walking in May, The oldest I recall was a Brazilian of 69 who had a triple bypass and was making the trip.

WEATHER - I only had one day of continuous rain in 15 days and several others where I broke out the poncho for an hour. May temperatures this year were ideal for hiking (mostly 50's and 60's during the day, but a couple of days in the 70's). We had snow overnight in O Cebreiro, but by the next day it was mostly gone and not too cold. Weather information for July and August from the internet shows the potential of some hot hiking weather, so be prepared. I noted that at least 2 of the 3 monuments I saw for pilgrims who died along the way (I assume from heart attacks) gave their dates of death as August.

SLEEPING BAGS - I used a lightweight (1 1/2 lb) down bag. It was perfect in May and I was never cold. A sleeping sheet would probably work in the summer - you could cover it with your jacket if necessary - and would save weight. Occasionally you'll find refuges with blankets and pillows, but don't count on it. They get washed once a year whether they need it or not, so you may want something between you and them.

SANTIAGO ROOMS - The deli at 80 Rue de Vilar manages a number of rooms. I stayed in one for 2500 pts which was a little noisy (earplugs to the rescue). Other pilgrims I talked with found rooms through the tourist info center on Rue de Vilar. The pilgrim office where you get your Compostela is at 1 Rue de Vilar, so you'll get to know the street.

ANIMALS & ASSISTANCE - I saw a pair of Frenchmen on horses and was surprised to see stables in the refuge in O Cebreiro. I didn't see any other animal assistance or any other provisions for animals (I didn't really look for them though). This is a strenuous trip and if you are concerned about your physical ability to complete the trip, you probably shouldn't attempt it. I did see pilgrims who walked as far as their physical condition allowed each day and took taxis or the bus to the next refuge.

COMPOSTELA REQUIREMENTS - While I had two sellos per day, the pilgrim's bureau was quite casual and I'm confident less would have been OK. As far as questions about reasons, the form you fill out asks you your reasons. Simply stating "religious" as everyone else who had filled in the form did was enough. I was asked no questions and received my Compostela.

Bien Camino!

 

Things a 2001 Pilgrim was glad to have brought along on this Camino

  1. Polypropylene sock liners. They don't totally protect you from blisters, but they did help a lot.
  2. A polypro thermal long-sleeved undershirt. It served several functions.
  3. On the road, it kept the sun off me, but pulled away perspiration and dried quickly, keeping me from overheating. In town, it kept me warm in the evenings. Don't be fooled by the calendar -- it's chilly here.
  4. Ibuprofen -- helped a lot with initial soreness, especially in towns which had never heard of full length bathtubs.
  5. Cool max shorts and a t-shirt from Travelsmith.com. Not only do they serve the main purpose of pulling away perspiration and keeping you cool, but you can hand wash the stuff in the evening and it will be mostly dry by morning.

Things I'm glad I did:

  1. Bought sunscreen. Actually I had bought some before leaving, but dropped it to reduce weight. Bad choice, I'm afraid.
  2. Asked for platos tipicos at every evening meal. I didn´t like everything (the Cabrales cheeses were really strong sometimes), but the cider was good and I really like the vino joven. Unlike my previous experiences, this time I had several good versions of caldo gallego, and everybody seems to have their own idea of what an ensalada mixta should be.
  3. Got out of bed early here in Santiago to see as much of the stuff on the tourist agendas as possible. Really liked the Colegiata de Sta. Maria del Sar.

Things I'm glad I didn't do:

  1. Bring along books to read. You can read beach books anywhere. It's the real world experiences that matter on the Camino.
  2. Try to stay exclusively in albergues. Small hostales, pensions, fondas, and casas de huespedes have their value too. Best of all, no snoring bunkmates.
  3. In the Asturias, give up completely on the waymarked camino and shift over to the highway. The marked camino can be frustrating, painful, and often straight uphill, but it was laid out with the intent of keeping you out of highway traffic and of showing you things you would never see otherwise.

 

Cyber Cafes along the way

LEON

CiberLeon (ahora ha cambiado de nombre)
e-mail: cibadmin@ciberleon.com
C/ Juan Lorenzo Segura , 8. León
Teléfono: 987
Horario: Desde 19:00 horas todos los días

Ciber Punto Com (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
e-mail: puntocom@usuarios.retecal.es
C/ Bernardo del Carpio, 16. León
Teléfono: 987-218318
Horario: Desde 19:00 horas todos los días
precios 100 pts. por 15 minutos, a partir 22:30

Hadock Internet Cafe (bar con musica demasiado fuerte) (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
e-mail:
C/ Santisteban y Osorio 10, León
Teléfono: , Horario:
pagina web: http://www.hadock.com/

Locutorio La Rua
e-mail: ??
Rúa 8, tel. 23.0106 , León

CORTE INGLES seccion informatica
LEON.

BIBLIOTECA PUBLICA
LEON.

OFICINA MUNICIPAL DE LA JUVENTUD, ayuntamiento viejo
LEON .

ASTORGA

JUENCA S.L.
e-mail: ???
C./ El Doctoral 5, Astorga , León

CIBERCENTRO MISTER WEB. (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
e-mail: cyber_mrweb@yahoo.es
c/ Puerta Obispo 11 - Bajo. Astorga, León
Tfno. 987 60 40 75
horario: 10:30-14 16:30-22:30, sab 11-14 17-23, domingo/festivos 17-23
Precio: 400/hora, 6 ordenadores - conexion buena

PONFERRADA

Cybernet (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
e-mail: cibernet2@ctv.es
Pzs Tierno Galvan 1, Ponferrada, León
tfno 987409311/987078540
100/15 min., 25 ordenadores/conexión de cable

Cybercafé Museo
e-mail: museo@bierzonet.com
Avda. del Ferrocarril s/n, Ponferrada, León

CentroMAIL
e-mail: ?
Dtor. Fleming 7, tfno 967 429430, Ponferrada, Leon

SARRIA

@NEXT (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
e-mail: cibernet2@ctv.es
Pº Malecón 14 bjo , (Al lado del Hotel Alfonso IX) Sarria, Lugo
Horarios 11-3, conexion via satelite, precio: 300 pts/hora, bono de 5 horas 1250 con cuenta cliente

PALAS

BURGUER XANIÑO (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
e-mail: ciberxanillo@ctv.es
Como Palas es muy pequeño pregutar por el porque ademas va a cambiar de local pronto .

MELIDE

CIBERPLAY (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
Av. de la Habana 35, abre de lunes a viernes de 16 a 1 h., fines de semana y festivos de 12 a 14 y de 16 a 1 h.
e-mail: ciberplay@ctv.es
Tarifas : 400 pts/hora

ARZUA

CIBERESPACIO (recomendado por Lesley Nelson)
Av. c/ José Antonio s/n
e-mail: ciberespacio@ctv.es
Tarifas : 300 pts/hora

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

CiberStereo (Recomendado por Rafael )
e-mail: xterix2000@yahoo.es
C/ Patio de las Madres 14 - Bajo -
Teléfono 981??
Abierto de 11:00 a 3:30. de Lunes a Domingo. Tarifas: 200 ptas/hora o 150 (nocturno)

CiberDreams
e-mail:ciberdreams@ctv.es
C/ Diego de Muros, 5 - Bajo - 15701.
Teléfono 981
Abierto las 24h. de Lunes a Domingo. Tarifas: 300 ptas/hora

CiberCafe Cruceiro de San Pedro,
(falta resto de informacion)

CiberCafe Aranheira
(en la zona nueva,falta resto de informacion)

RUANOVA 50 (Recomendado por Ales)
en la Rua Nova 50, es el mas centrico , a 100 m de la Catedral
e-mail: nova50@ctv.es y nova50@arrakis.es
C/ Rua Nova 50
Abierto las 24h. de Lunes a Domingo. Tarifas: 300 ptas/hora